The preamble to my arrival in
Thailand was a 24 hour marathon of either airports or the economy
section of one of three jets it took me to get here. There was a certain
amount of dread affixed to this notion of requiring three different
jets to get to my destination because I know myself very well, and what I
know with regard to jet travel is that I have fitful experiences bereft
of any sort of restfulness.
Leaving
behind the arid and oven-hot climate of the Middle East I arrive at the
airport in Thailand, dim-witted from too many gates, too many
negotiations with customer service, and no semblance of rest. I'm
immediately struck by visions of Japan as I go through customs - they
even have the cartoon customs mascots in Thailand just as they do in
Japan at Narita International Airport. Taking my surroundings for face
value and with little thought involved, I could provide close analog
with my present surroundings and Japan entirely. Of course, it's not that simple, nothing ever is.
I
emerge from the airport with a backpack slung over one shoulder. Inside
I have enough clothes for four days, toiletries, a computer and a book.
The lack of checked baggage and baggage claim has already made this gamble worth it,
I think to myself, shouldering the other strap and walking to the
Public Transport area of the parking lot. This is when I realize that
despite my preparation with lodging, reading about the climate and
surrounding areas, and reading about the culture, I did not study one
word of Thai language. In what would turn out to be an on-going trend
for the remainder of my first day in Thailand - I arrived in Thailand at
8 pm - I stumble through dialogue with the lady at the Public Transport
booth. Luckily, this is not her first experience with a self-centered
American who did not study any Thai language, and she hails a cab for
me.
I
slip into the back seat of the cab and clumsily utter the address of my
apartment in Bangkok. I'm met by a blank stare from the rearview mirror
and so I repeat the address, more finely this time, and with a change
in intonation for certain syllables. Still nothing. I heave a sigh of
resignation and hand the driver my directions. He nods quickly and tears
out of his parking spot. Instinctively reacting to the jarring of the
taxi, I reach for a seat belt and don't find one. Despite the chaos that
would envelope me for the next seventy minutes of the taxi ride to my
apartment, I enjoyed the experience for what it was. And what Thailand
driving etiquette is, I can succinctly describe in this way: a
matter of self-preservation, with no particular adherence to driving
laws, should such things even exist here. There is no gradual braking,
no blinkers, no gradual acceleration. Everything has a certain timing to
it with regard to traffic, and that timing is frenetic.
On
the other hand, I am surrounded by the ephemera of my Bangkok
experience. There is a rush of lights, temples, and greenery, all of
which were so starkly absent from my life in the Middle East.
Acknowledging the ephemeral nature of past experience, I am attempting
to nail it all down with the very words that I type. I may not be much
for taking pictures, but I can write. And write, and write, and write.
Or type.
This
entry is the first of many chronicling my experiences in Thailand, and I
will do my very best not only to bring an accurate portrayal of this
country to you, but also flesh out the experience entirely with some
sort of meaning: lessons learned, mistakes made, or otherwise.
The
taxi driver and I quibble over the final expense of this ride. The
meter says one amount, the driver says another. Finally, we agree on an
amount in between and I receive my first lesson in Thai economics: everything can and will be negotiated.
My apartment is on the seventh floor of a seven story building, which
feels lucky to me for reasons I can't justify. The property manager,
whom I shall call Steve, meets me at the complex entrance and shows me
to my room. As I recall, Steve took great care to break everything down
for me, but it was a fruitless endeavor - I was entirely too exhausted
to adequately retain information. He gives me a quick crash course in
common Thai phrases, zero of which I remember even after he has left me
alone in my apartment.
My
apartment is small, simple, yet chic. The resounding theme is black and
white, only interrupted with occasional orange furnishings. The
bathroom includes a western toilet but with a hose and nozzle attached
to the base of it, presumably to rinse off one's nether regions
following the bathroom engagement. The shower is less a stall and more a
random designated area on the bathroom wall to mount the shower head,
plumbing and controls. In all of my worldliness - or lack thereof, since
there is no sarcasm font - I have been in this apartment for three days
and still cannot understand how to turn on the water heater, so I enjoy
cold showers. And I truly do enjoy them.
Following
the cold shower, I eat two hard boiled eggs and wash them down with a
small box of green tea I purchased from the 7/11 within the apartment
complex. Indeed, the complex has its own 7/11. I floss, I brush my
teeth, and I flop onto the bed. The thought occurs to me that with so
much in flux the past day and a half, I welcome the certainty of sleep. Though I will experience so many new things and have already, sleep is guaranteed. It seems that once my brain is done considering this, I immediately drift to sleep.
I wake up three hours later, wide-awake. I'm in Thailand.





